the rain in spain stays mainly in the mud

it has been raining nearly daily since we started hiking. it makes for some cold days, but great hiking when it finally clears ¿and more cafe con leche for usª? so, we have made some good time these past 3 days, going over 30 km every day. the chorizo sausage is still good, the wine is great, and the company is interesting.

where else in the world can you speak 3 languages and hear 7 before breakfast? ok, well, maybe at the un, youçre right, but this is aclose second. i have never really wished so hard for a german english dictionary in my life in a non=german speakin country. who knew? also, i have started eating small amounts of seafood out of necessity. so far, so good. curtis, asyou can well imagine, is thrilled. i also still continue to like white and rose wine. yum. there is no exclimation point on this keyboard...

we have walked in the mud up to our ankles, on back=dirt roads, through the vinyards= and i do mean through... also on old roman roads, over old roman bridges... along the highway= that was a fun interlude today= and through all the major cities... this keyboard is not labeled properly.

the fun part is when we go through small, old villages where we can see old houses. everyone in the small villages is reallly nice and helpful, and most speak slowly so that i can understand. curtçs spanish is growing by leaps and bounds. i am actually enjoying some compliments about my spanish abilities. people are really impressed when we say we are from the usa. they donçt expect us to know a foreign language. it is hard not to buy an old hpouse in a small village and set up shop here...

almost everyone here has heard of celiacçs disease, so getting food is no issue. that said, i do eat a lot of eggs and french fries... there is an omlette... known as a tortilla here... that has onion and poatato in it... yuym yum yum. there are also large, tasty, cheap hikers meals in most towns. finally had good, homemade paella as well... different, but good. also tried bloodsausage for the first time... again, gross looking, different, but good.

went through atapuerca today, home of the oldest human remains ever found... and have seen some mighty nice churches as well. also passed a fountain that dispences wine instaed of water ... not the best wine ever, but hey, itçs free wine, we cançt be choosy....

more later. i should now be able to give more specific details on our journey since the basics are covered.

watching the hail
audrey and curtis